Knitted fabrics are an
alternative to the woven or loom fabrics. These fabrics are stretchable, soft
and quick to recover from wrinkles, unlike, woven fabrics knitted fabrics would
not become stiff or board even if you make it heavy. All knitted fabrics
(except warp knit) are stretchable in both directions horizontal and vertical,
but more stretchable horizontally. Knit fabric structures are formed through
the process of interlocking loops or forming loops with one or more yarn in
preceding and succeeding rows, knit fabrics are produced by hand or on a
variety of knitting machines with one or more needles of different types.
Variation of knit fabrics may be
achieved by adding deleting or combining any one or more of the following:
- Content
of fiber – natural, man-made, blend or combination
- Type of
fiber – filament or staple
- Size or
denier of yarn – fine, lofted or bulked
- Type of
yarn – twisted, textured, novelty or specialty
- Color of
yarn – one color or multi colored
- Type and
capability of knitting machines
- Attachments
used on knitting machines
- Type and
quality of needles
- Size,
thickness and length of needles
- Formation
of needles – inoperative or selectively operative
- Number and
spacing of needle sets
- Size of
stitches
- Formation
and pattern of stitches
- Number or
threading of guide bars
- Finishing
processes applied to yarn or finished goods
Any variation of the above will
affect the appearance, texture, performance expectation and weight of the
fabric.
Knit fabrics are classified and
named with regard to the
- Structure
of fabrics
- Method or
type of production or construction
- Type of
machine used for its construction
- Number of
guide bars on a machine
According to the basic structure
of knit fabrics, knit fabrics are classified into two categories:
- Warp knit
fabric and
- Weft knit
fabric
- Warp
knit fabrics:
This is a special kind of knit
fabric which has warp treads (but no weft threads). This fabric has little or no stretch ability
like woven fabric. It is called knit, because it is constructed by needles like
other knits fabric and it has no weft threads. It feels like woven fabric and
wears like woven fabric, warp knit fabrics are produced by a system of
interlocking loops in a length wise direction. Fabric is produced by several
parallel yarns that form one stitch for each yarn in each course. Each stitch
in a course is made by different yarn. All the needles move up to at the same
time to make the stitch. The stitches are produced in each course
simultaneously. Warp knit structures as following kinds:
- Milanese knit
- Raschel knit
- Ketten raschel knit
- Tricot knit
Milanese knit: Milanese knit
fabric is more expensive than tricot fabric. It’s also stronger, stable and
smoother than tricot fabric. Milanese fabric stitches very similar to tricot
fabric. It can be identified by face fabric having a fine vertical rib and the opposite
having a diagonal structure.
Raschel knit: Raschel knit do not
stretch significantly and used for coats, jackets and dresses. Raschel knitting
is done by heavy yarns and usually has a complex lacelike pattern.
Kitten rashel knit: Kitten rashel
knit is fine with good elasticity. Kitten rashel knit also known as chain
rashel.
Tricot Knit: Tricot knit fabric
is very soft. It is used for verity of fabric weights and design. There are many
types of tricot fabric- plain tricot, satin tricot, mesh tricot etc. Tricot
fabric used in shirts, blouses and dresses.
- Weft knit
fabrics:
These fabrics are produced by a
system of interlocking loops in a cross wise direction. The loops are made in
horizontal courses with each course built on top of the other. All the needles
operate independently of one another and all the stitches in the course are
made by one yarn. These fabrics are usually constructed horizontally by needles
without warp yarn. As merchandisers to handle knit garments we should first
learn to be able to identity the different kinds of knit and what the limits
are of what you can do of each kind. When knit fabrics are finished by the
mill, it is usually rolled on a tube with tension. Therefore, when you unroll
the fabric on cutting table, you should not apply the marker on and cut it
right away, you should let it relax for a few hours, or preferably over night
to check it the length has become shorter when the tension is gone. It may
surprise you that the length or width or both have shrunk 5 to 7 % on the
cutting table. Just imagine, if you cut the fabrics without relaxing them you
may end up getting your garments undersized on the tension it was given prior.