Costing

Knitted trouser fabric consumption system

In apparel industry, trouser is the most common items & also used widely in garments sector. Most important task for merchandiser is calculating fabric consumption for an order. If final consumption of an order is not accurate then manufacturer will face huge problem and may lose their reputation. For calculating fabric consumption for an order. There are two methods are using for determining the fabric consumption. But maximum garments are using Marker method to calculate final cad marker for a garments. Presently, marker method is more popular then Mathematical method. For information regarding fabric consumption check below article;
knitted trouser, neps trouser, fleece neps trouser, grey neps fleece trouser
Trouser (Neps)
Fabric consumption for different parts:
  1. Fabric consumption for Body
  2. Fabric consumption for pocket
  3. Total fabric consumption 
Spec sheet for Knitted trouser
m-list for trouser, measurement list of trouser
Trouser's M-list

Size range134140146152158164170
1. Half waist (½ waist)31 cm 32 cm33 cm 34 cm35 cm36 cm37 cm
11. Front rise (FR)16 cm 17 cm 18 cm18.25 cm19 cm19.5 cm 20 cm
12. Back rise25.5 cm 26.5 cm 27.5 cm 27.75 cm 28.5 cm 29 cm 29.5 cm
13. Waistband height (WBH)4 cm4 cm 4 cm4 cm 4 cm 4 cm4 cm
6. Half thigh (½ thigh)23.25 cm24.25 cm25.25 cm 25.75 cm26.25 cm27.25 cm28 cm
9. Inseam length (ISL)58.5 cm61.5 cm64.5 cm67.5 cm70.5 cm73.5 cm76.5 cm
10. Bottom cuff height4 cm4 cm 4 cm4 cm 4 cm 4 cm4 cm
3. Side pocket length 11.75 cm 12 cm12.5 cm13 cm13.5 cm14 cm14.5 cm
5. Side pocket width9.25 cm9.75 cm10 cm10.5 cm10.75 cm11.25 cm11.5 cm
Fabric: Fleece terry
Item: Knitted trouser
Size: 164
Fabric weight = 260 GSM
ISL = Inseam length = 73.5 cm
SA = Seam Allowance = 5 cm
FR = Front rise = 19.5 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 0 cm
WBH = Waistband height = 4 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 4 cm
½ thigh = 27.25 cm
SA= Seam allowance = 4 cm

Fabric consumption for Body / Doz.:
{(ISL + SA + FR + SA + WBH + SA) x (½ thigh + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(73.5 + 5 + 19.5 + 0 + 4 + 4) x (27.25 + 4)} x 4 x 260 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 4.465 kg / Doz.

Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If fabric Single jersey then use GSM like 160):
{(Pocket Length + SA) x (Pocket Width + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(14 + 4) x (11.25 + 4)} x 4 x 160 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.228 kg / Doz.

Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If shell fabric then uses GSM like 240):
{(Pocket Length + SA) x (Pocket Width + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(14 + 4) x (11.25 + 4)} x 4 x 260 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.37 kg / Doz.

Total fabric consumption of trouser (if Pocket single jersey):
Body consumption + Pocket consumption
= 4.465 + 0.228
= 4.693 kg / Doz.

Total fabric consumption of trouser (if Pocket shell fabric):
Body consumption + Pocket consumption
= 4.465 + 0.37
= 5.063 kg / Doz.

Finally note that, using above formula we will get only fabric weight that is consumed by a garment. In the above formula, it didn’t include marker loss, fabric loss due to fabric width and fabric wastage (like dying loss, finishing loss etc.). When we purchase fabric we have to consider all of those parameter.
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Hooded Sweat Shirt fabric consumption system

In apparel industry, Sweat Shirt or Hoodie is the common items. As we know, consumption is the most important part for an order and it’s also related with costing. Our main purpose is to minimize the cost and make more profit from an order. There are two methods to determine the fabric consumption. They are-
  1. Marker planning system
  2. Mathematical system
Now maximum garments industry is using marker planning method for determining final cad marker of an order. Actually this method is more helpful then mathematical method. If you want to gather more information regarding fabric consumption, then you can check below article;
Basic knitted T-Shirt fabric consumption system
Knitted Polo-Shirt fabric consumption system
Knitted trouser fabric consumption system

Hoodie sweat shirt, purple hoodie sweat shirt, fence terry sweat shirt
Hoodie Sweat Shirt

Fabric consumption for different parts:
  1. Fabric consumption for Body
  2. Fabric consumption for Hood
  3. Fabric consumption for Bottom Rib
  4. Fabric consumption for pocket
  5. Total fabric consumption
Spec sheet for men’s Jacket:
hoodie m-list back, measurement sheet for hoodie sweat shirt
Hoodie Measurement Back
hoodie m-list front, measurement sheet hoodie sweat shirt
Hoodie Measurement Front
Size range 134/140146/152158/164170
1. Half chest (1/2 chest)37.75 cm40.75 cm43.75 cm45.25 cm
2. Half bottom length (1/2 bottom)35 cm38 cm41 cm42.5 cm
4. Body length from shoulder (BL)47 cm51 cm55 cm57 cm
10. Sleeve length (SL)53 cm57 cm62 cm64 cm
21. Hood height 31 cm32 cm 33 cm 33.5 cm
22. Half Hood Width23.5 cm 24.5 cm25.75 cm26.5 cm
13. ½ Cuff opening8.5 cm9 cm 9.5 cm9.5 cm
3. Cuff & Bottom Rib Height4 cm4 cm 4cm 4cm
19. Pocket Length14 cm 15 cm16 cm16.5 cm
16. Pocket Width15 cm16 cm17 cm17.5 cm

Fabric: Fleece fabric
Item: Basic men’s Hooded sweat shirt
Size: 158/164
Fabric weight = 240 GSM
BL = Body length from shoulder = 55 cm
SA = Seam Allowance = 5 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 62 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 5 cm
½ Chest = 43.75 cm
SA= Seam allowance = 4 cm

Fabric consumption for Body / Doz.:
{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(55 + 5 + 62 + 5) x (43.75 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 3.77 kg / Doz.

Fabric consumption for Hood / Doz.:
{(Hood Height + SA) x (1/2 Hood Width + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(33 + 5) x (25.75 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.703 kg / Doz.

Fabric consumption for Bottom Rib / Doz.:
{(Bottom Length + SA + ½ Cuff opening + SA) x (Bottom Rib height + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(41 + 5 + 19 + 4) x (4 + 3)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.300 kg / Doz.

Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If fabric Single jersey then use GSM like 150):
{(Pocket Length + SA) x (Pocket Width + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(16 + 4) x (17 + 4)} x 2 x 150 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.163 kg / Doz.

Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If shell fabric then uses GSM like 240):
{(Pocket Length + SA) x (Pocket Width + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(16 + 4) x (17 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.261 kg / Doz.

Total fabric consumption (if Pocket single jersey):
Body consumption + Hood consumption + Bottom Rib consumption + Pocket consumption
= 3.77 + 0.703 + 0.30 + 0.163
= 4.936 kg / Doz.

Total fabric consumption (if Pocket shell fabric):
Body consumption + Hood consumption + Bottom Rib consumption + Pocket consumption
= 3.77 + 0.703 + 0.30 + 0.261
= 5.036 kg / Doz.

Finally note that, using above formula we will get only fabric weight that is consumed by a garment. In the above formula, it didn’t include marker loss, fabric loss due to fabric width and fabric wastage (like dying loss, finishing loss etc.). When we purchase fabric we have to consider all of those parameter.
Categories:

Polo-Shirt fabric consumption system


In apparel industry, we know fabric consumption is the most important factor of an order. As we already discussed, Types of fabric consumption for Knit garments & Basic knitted T-Shirt fabric consumption system. Now we will know how to calculate polo shirt’s fabric consumption of an order. Main reason of garments consumption is to bring an assumption over costing of the garments. Since it depends on fabric prices therefore we should focus on fabric consumption to get accurate and closure consumption of an order. Closure consumption of an order will reduce fabric wastage which will be economically beneficial for us.  If you want to know more about fabric consumption like Hoodies, Trouser then see the bellow article;
basic polo shirt, white polo shirt, knitted polo shirt, single jersey polo shirt
Basic Polo Shirt Front
basic polo shirt, white polo shirt, knitted polo shirt, single jersey polo shirt
Basic Polo Shirt Back

Fabric consumption for different parts:
1.     Fabric consumption for body part
2.     Fabric consumption for collar


Spec sheet for men’s Polo-shirt:
measurement list for polo shirt, m-list, spec sheet for polo shirt
M-list for Polo shirt Front
measurement list for polo shirt, m-list, spec sheet for polo shirt
M-list for polo shirt Back

Size range 9298/104110/116122/128134/140
(1) Half chest (1/2 chest)31 cm33 cm35 cm37 cm40 cm
(2)Half bottom (1/2 bottom)31 cm33 cm35 cm37 cm40 cm
(3)Body length from shoulder (BL)37.5 cm41.5 cm46 cm50 cm55 cm
(8)Sleeve length (SL)17.5 cm19 cm21 cm22.5 cm24.5 cm
Collar height5.5 cm6 cm6 cm6.5 cm6.5 cm
Collar Length27.5 cm31 cm30.5 cm32.5 cm33.5 cm



Fabric: Pique Knit
Item: Basic men’s short Polo T-shirt
Size: 122/128
Fabric weight = 180 GSM
BL = Body length from shoulder = 50 cm
SA = Seam Allowance = 5 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 22.5 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 5 cm
½ Chest = 37 cm
SA= Seam allowance = 4 cm
TF = Trim fabric (Neck collar & cuff rib) = Neck collar & cuff rib consumption 0.80 kg/Doz.

1.     Fabric consumption formula for Body / Doz.:
{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(50 + 5 + 22.5 + 5) x (37 + 4)} x 2 x 180 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 1.578 kg / Doz.

2.     Fabric consumption formula for Collar / Doz.: Suppose, Collar GSM 320
{(Collar Length + SA*) x (Collar Height + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(32.5 + 0) x (6.5 + 2.5)} x 2 x 320 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.253 kg / Doz.

NOTE (Collar Length allowance): Practically, we used minus tendency in collar length measurement. Because we can’t reduce collar length after getting the final collar from delivery section. If you want know to calculation process for collar length, then check the below article;
Total fabric consumption for Polo shirt / Doz.:
Body consumption + Collar consumption
= 1.578 + 0.253
= 1.831 kg / Doz.

Finally note that, using above formula we will get only fabric weight that is consumed by a garment. In the above formula, it didn’t include marker loss, fabric loss due to fabric width and fabric wastage (like dying loss, finishing loss etc.). When we purchase fabric we have to consider all of those parameter. 

Categories:

Basic T-Shirt fabric consumption system

As we know, fabric consumption is the most important factor in apparel industry. Garment factory is set for profit generation. Most of the time, profit or loss depend on the total consumption of fabric in an order. In this case, we should calculate accurate consumption before starting bulk cutting of an order. In garments industry, there are two major methods used to calculate the fabric consumption. Those methods known as Marker making method and Mathematical method. You don’t need to worry for bulk consumption because buyer will be confirmed;
  • Types of fabric
  • Fabric GSM
  • Measurement sheet or spec. sheet of the style. 
Basic T-Shirt

Spec sheet for men’s T-shirt:
Suppose, buyer has provided bellow measurement sheet, fabric type & GSM for a basic T-shirt project. If you wan to know about fabric consumption then check the below articles;
M-list for Basic T-Shirt

Size range 9298/104110/116122/128134/140146/152
1. Half chest (1/2 chest)31 cm32.8 cm34.8 cm36.6 cm40 cm43.4 cm
2. Half bottom (1/2 bottom)31 cm32.8 cm34.8 cm36.6 cm40 cm43.4 cm
4. Body length from shoulder (BL)38.5 cm42.5 cm47 cm51.5 cm56 cm61 cm
5. Sleeve length (SL)31.4 cm34.2 cm38.5 cm45.8 cm51.1 cm55.4 cm

Fabric: Jersey Knit
Item: Basic men’s s/slv T-shirt
Size: 122/128
Fabric weight = 150 GSM
BL = Body length from shoulder = 51.5 cm
SA = Seam Allowance = 5 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 45.8 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 5 cm
½ Chest = 36.6 cm
SA= Seam allowance = 4 cm
TF = Trim fabric (Neck rib/binding) = Neck rib consumption 0.20 kg/Doz.

Fabric consumption formula for T-shirt / Doz.:
{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz. + TF
= {(51.5 + 5 + 45.8 + 5) x (36.6 + 4)} x 2 x 150 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12 + 0.20
= 1.894 kg / Doz.



Finally note that, using above formula we will get only fabric weight that is consumed by a garment. In the above formula, it didn’t include marker loss, fabric loss due to fabric width and fabric wastage (like dying loss, finishing loss etc.). When we purchase fabric we have to consider all of those parameter.
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Prepare of price quotation for buyers

Prepare of price quotation for buyers
Prepare of price quotation is the most important part in apparel industry. It’s very important for both buyer and seller. Manufacturer or exporter should be more careful, when they are going to apply the price quotation of the product. Here manufacturers of products are the seller of the products. Price quotation is the business proposal which is made by seller for the interested buyer who wants to buy fashionable goods as specific prices for certain terms and conditions. Manufacturer of the products or sellers always likes to offer better opportunity for his buyer. Most important, the quotation letter should contain all the information which is required for understanding all the points of dealing.
For price quotation letter, few important point should be follow before apply the letter of price quotation for garments products. They are-
  • Should concern type of quotation.
  • The quality of product offered for sale
  • Per unit selling price of the garments products.
  • Total value of the products
  • Payment mode like cash or credit, cash discount (penalty) or any other allowances
  • Shipment mode like Sea, Air or Sea-air & TOD (Time of delivery), Place
  • Labeling & packing details
  • Full instruction of insurance
  • List of country destination and documentation details
In additional, there may be lots of points should be maintained in the price quotation of garments products. Actually, additional requirement depends on buyer requirement. At last, we will see a simple sample format of price quotation letter.

An introductory sample letter to a prospective buyer:

"Dear Jon,
XYZ Apparels Ltd. Manufactures a wide variety of ready-made garments and is already exporting to major buyers of the USA, Canada, UK, France and Germany.
We are interested in expanding our trade in Japan and believe that your company already imports the line of products that we produce.

We are enclosing a copy of our brochure and price list for examination at your convenience and we would be pleased to forward samples of any item of garment that may be interest to you.

Thanking you and looking forward to your positive response.

Best regards
Name
Marketing Manager / Merchandiser "

As we know, price quotation is the most important factor in apparel industry for merchandiser. Price quotation is the mutual agreement between buyer and manufacture or seller. There are many types of quotation considered for exporting products during price quotation. Those are in the following:
  • LOCO: The lowest quotation of price is called LOCO. It means on the spot. When buyer will carry his product or goods from seller or manufacture factory to own factory or warehouse. In this case, all carrying cost will be bearded by the buyer.
  • FAS: Means Free Along Side Ship. It determines that seller or manufacture will bear the carrying cost from his warehouse to the ship and rest of the destination cost will bear buyer. That means buyer will provide the expenses from ship loading to the buyer warehouse.
  • FOW: FOW means Free On Wagon. It determines that manufacture or seller will bear carrying cost from his warehouse to the nearest railway station and rest of the carrying cost will bear by the buyer.
  • CIFE: Full meaning of CIFF is Cost, Insurance, Freight and Exchange. Manufacturing cost, insurance charge, carrying cost and exchange cost will be included in price quotation of the product.
  • CWO: It means Cash with Order. It determines that buyer will send money along with the order. In this case, order will not be executed without receiving the order.
  • COD: Means Cash On delivery which is determine that buyer will pay cash after receiving the desired order goods to the desired destination.
  • FOR: It means Free On Rail. It determines that the seller or manufacture will bear all expenses from his own warehouse to the railway station. Also seller or manufacture will bear the loading cost and rest of the cost will bear by the buyer.
In apparel industry, there are mainly four systems of calculation for price quotation which are as under:
  1. FOB (Free on Board)
  2. CFR / C & F (Cost of Freight)
  3. CIF (Cost, Insurance & Freight)
  4. CMT (Cut make and trims)

  1. FOB (Free On Board):
FOB means ‘free on board’. Now most of the garments industry price quoted on FOB. It determines that seller or manufacture will bear all costs which required reaching the goods from his own warehouse to the board of ship at the port of shipment. That means manufacture or seller will include the cost of fabric, accessories, cost of making, overhead, C&F and transportation cost (from factory warehouse to shipment port) for making the price of product quotation. Here also seller will be bearded product loading expenses. Exporter does not bear the cost of freight of ship or air. It is buyer (importer) who himself bears the freight of ship or air.

  1. C&F (Cost of Freight):
CFR / C & F means ‘Cost of Freight’. That means
FOB (Cost) + Freight = C & F
In the case ship or air freight is carried by the exporter while quoting price, the exporter quotes price a bit higher than FOB. The whole responsibility including the sending of goods to the selected port of the importer is shouldered by the exporter ship or air. Freight may vary from place to place and shippers to shippers. Also note that, seller will not bear the insurance cost in this quotation.

  1. CIF (Cost Insurance & Freight):
CIF means cost insurance & freight. In this case in additional to the bearing of freight the cost of insurance is also born by the exporter or manufacture. The exporter, while quoting CIF price, quotes much higher than C&F value. That means
C&F + insurance = CIF
Normally we can add 1-2% insurance charge with CIF price.

  1.  CMT (Cut Make and Trims)
CMT means ‘Cut make and trims’. Making cost, accessories and trimmings cost of garments has included in the quotes of garments which is provided by seller or manufacturer. In this case, buyer provides all the required raw materials to the manufacturer and exporter gets only the making cost, accessories and trimming cost of the product.

During the fixation of FOB price following notes are to be followed carefully:
  • Cost of fabric/Doz. Garments (Woven/Knit) or cost of yarn /Doz. Garments (in case of sweater)
  • Cost of accessories / Doz. Garments
  • Cost of transportation from factory to sea port or airport
  • Clearing and forwarding cost
  • Overhead cost
  • Commission/Profit
The notes above are applicable in case of sending goods aboard on FOB basis. 
Categories:

How to calculate embroidery costing

In present day, embroidery is common term in apparel industry. Embroidery used to make garments more attractive and fashionable. Now it has come more popular and widely in garments manufacturing sector. In other way, we can say embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread.
embroidery costing, calcualtion of embroidery, garment embroidery costing and cosnumption
Embroidery costing for garments
Costing of embroidery are based on a “Per stitch” count. After prepared the design, producer will run a stitch count to determine the cost of the embroider. Before starting the costing, garments merchandiser should consider of few factors to determine embroidery costing. Factors are:
  • Stitch number.
  • Embroidery type
  • Estimate time to complete one batch. 
  • Color of thread.
  • Cutting of applique.
  • Place of embroidery.
  • Resource involves in doing embroidery. 
  • Any restriction on selection on embroidery machine
  • Any lab test requirement
  • Any restriction on use of embroidery thread

Calculating Embroidery costing:

We know embroidery stitch unit is 12000 stitch but maximum time embroidery factory didn't accept any order on stitch. Because applique, patch etc. has taken too much time that's why embroidery factor doesn't know actual how much time consumed to complete one batch. 

1-unit embroidery = 12,000 stitch

For calculating, the cost of embroidery we need to know below details:
  • Stitch quantity of  the design.
  • Rate of per unite. (It depends on embroidery design, size & factories ability).     
Suppose, a design have 9000 stitch & per unite price is $0.30 in unit. Let's find the the costing of embroidery. 

Rules: (Rate of Unit / 12,000 X Stitch quantity) x 12
        = ($0.30 / 12,000 X 9000) X 12
        = $ 2.7 / dzn

So, 2.7 USD need for 1 dzn garments if garments design has 9000 stitch. 

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How to Calculate Zipper Length

Zipper is one of the common item in garments industry. Zipper teeth are usually made of brass, aluminum, plastic or nylon which do not shrink when washed. Therefore, the zipper tapes must be made of materials which do not shrink when washed otherwise the shrinkage will make the zipper fail to function. In most cases, the zipper tapes are made of nylon or polyester which do not shrink and are colorfast. 
zipper, zipper length calculation, garments zipper, plastic zipper, vislon zipper, metal zipper, antic zipper, zipper teeth, zipper puller, zipper side tape
Zipper Length calculation for Garments

Zipper measurement calculation is the most important part for garments merchandiser. So, garments merchandiser should more careful to calculate zipper measurement for bulk production. However, zipper calculation is very easy but sometimes it becomes a matter of big trouble for us. Zipper depends on fabrics and zipper properties. So, we need to take some idea about the body fabric shrinkage and zipper tape. Today we will discuss about the front long zipper of sweat shirt and hoodies or as like that. 

Zipper Calculation: 

Let’s check out, how to find out zipper measurement by using formulas;
  • If the garments body length measure from HPS, then
Formula: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop ) - (2 to 3 %) 

Suppose, A sweat shirt has body length 70 cm, front neck drop 7 cm and back neck drop is - 3 cm, Now find out the zipper length?

Solution: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop ) - 2 to 3%
              = 70 - ( 7 + 3 ) - 2%
              = 58.8 cm = 58.5 cm 
Finally, we got the result, we need zipper length 58.5 cm 

  • If the garments body length measure from CB, then formula will be;
Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %)

Suppose, a hoodie has body length 67 cm, front neck drop 6 cm. Now find out the zipper length ?

Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2 %
              = (67 - 6) - 2% 
              = 59.78 cm = 59.5 cm 

Finally, we have got the result, we will use zipper length 59.5 cm 
  • If the garments have high neck and zipper goes up to high neck drop from bottom. 
Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %) + Height of high neck 

Suppose, A hoodie garments has body length 68 cm, front neck drop 6 cm, height of high neck 5 cm. Now find out he zipper length?

Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop ) - 2 % + Height high neck
              = (68 - 6 ) - 2% + 5 
              = 65.76 cm = 65.50 cm

Finally we have got the result, we will use zipper length 65.5 cm 

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