Yarn count:
Count is
numerical expression, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of
the yarn. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. Also indicate
the relationship between length and weight (the mess per unit length or the
length per unit mass) of that yarn. Definition is given by the textile
institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the
length per unit mass of yarn”
Types of yarn
count:
i)
Indirect
count – English, Worsted, Metric
ii)
Direct
count – Tex, Denier, Spindle.
Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number
of length units in one weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The
system is generally used for cotton, worsted & linen (wet spun) etc.
Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of
weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The
system is generally used for synthetic fiber, jute, silk etc.
GSM:
The GSM of
fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a
textile engineer to understand and production of fabric. GSM means “Gram
per square meter” that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By
this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is
lighter.
Count selection in knitting:
Knitted fabric
is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used to
produce fabric of different gram mage. There is also a need to calculate
optimum production of knitting machines. It is the job of knitting manager to
do certain calculation for proper use of machines and production of fabric
according to the demands of the customer.
Relation
between count and GSM are given below:
Single jersey:
110 – 120 GSM
= 40/s, 36/s
130 – 150 GSM
= 34/s, 32/s & 30/s
160 – 170 GSM
= 26/s, 28/s (PC, CVC)
180 – 210 GSM
= 24/s, 20/s, 18/s
220 – 240 GSM
= 20/s
PK/LACOST/1X1 RIB:
150 – 170 GSM
= 34/s
180 – 200 GSM =
30/s
210 – 225 GSM
= 26/s
230 – 250 GSM
= 24/s
250 – 270 =
20/s
2X1 RIB:
220 – 230 GSM =
30/s
240 – 250 GSM =
26/s
260 – 280 GSM =
24/s
INTERLOCK
22 Gauge - 24
Gauge
200 – 220 =
40/s
230 – 250 =
34/s
240 – 260 = 30/s
260 – 275 =
26/s
SINGLE JERSEY WITH LYCRA 5%:
150 – 160 GSM =
34/s
170 – 190 GSM =
30/s
200 – 210 GSM =
26/s
220 – 240 GSM =
24/s
FLEECE:
250 GSM =
20/s, 30/s (20: 80)
300 GSM =
10/s, 26/s (30:70)
Select Yarn Count for Your Specific Fabric GSM
Yarn count
selection for specific fabric GSM is technical and common task for textile
engineers. By using formula textile engineers can easily select the actual yarn
count for knot fabrics. These can be varying deferent fabric types.
Single Jersey:
If, the
require fabric GSM is 150
Yarn count =
(-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22
= (-0.141) X
(150) + 50.22
= -21.15 +
50.22
= 29.07
So, we need yarn count 30/s
Interlock:
If, the
require fabric GSM is 210
Yarn count =
(-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56
= (-0.206) X
(210) + 80.56
= -43.26 +
80.56
= 37.3
So, we need yarn count 38/s
Pique:
If, the
require fabric GSM is 230
Yarn count =
(-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16
= (-0.146) X
(230) + 57.16
= -33.58 +
57.16
= 23.58
So, we need yarn count 24/s
1*1 Rib:
If, the
require fabric GSM is 200
Yarn count =
(-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57
= (-0.123) X
(200) + 54.57
= -24.6 +
54.57
= 29.97
So, we need yarn count 30/s
Double Lacoste:
If, the
require fabric GSM is 240
Yarn count =
(-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36
= (-0.167) X
(240) + 64.36
= -40.08 +
64.36
= 24.28
So, we need yarn count 24/s
Lycra 1×1 Rib:
If, required
fabric GSM is 220
Yarn Count =
(-0.119) GSM + 59.12
= (-0.119) x
220 + 59.12
= -26.18 +
59.12
=32.94
So, we need yarn count 32/s
Lycra 2x2 Rib:
If, the
require fabric GSM is 240
Yarn count =
(-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62
= (-0.108) X
(240) + 56.62
= -25.92 +
56.62
= 30.07
So, we need yarn count 30/s