How to calculate embroidery costing

In present day, embroidery is common term in apparel industry. Embroidery used to make garments more attractive and fashionable. Now it has come more popular and widely in garments manufacturing sector. In other way, we can say embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread.

Embroidery costing for garments

Costing of embroidery are based on a “Per stitch” count. After prepared the design, producer will run a stitch count to determine the cost of the embroider. Before starting the costing, garments merchandiser should consider of few factors to determine embroidery costing. Factors are:

• Stitch number.
• Embroidery type
• Estimate time to complete one batch. 
• Color of thread.
• Cutting of applique.
• Place of embroidery.
• Resource involves in doing embroidery. 
• Any restriction on selection on embroidery machine
• Any lab test requirement
• Any restriction on use of embroidery thread

Calculating Embroidery costing:

We know embroidery stitch unit is 12000 stitch but maximum time embroidery factory didn't accept any order on stitch. Because applique, patch etc. has taken too much time that's why embroidery factor doesn't know actual how much time consumed to complete one batch. 

1-unit embroidery = 12,000 stitch

For calculating, the cost of embroidery we need to know below details:

• Stitch quantity of  the design.
• Rate of per unite. (It depends on embroidery design, size & factories ability).     

Suppose, a design have 9000 stitch & per unite price is $0.30 in unit. Let's find the the costing of embroidery. 

Rules: (Rate of Unit / 12,000 X Stitch quantity) x 12

        = ($0.30 / 12,000 X 9000) X 12

        = $ 2.7 / dzn

So, 2.7 USD need for 1 dzn garments if garments design has 9000 stitch. 

Calculate Collar length for Polo shirt

In apparel industry, garments merchandiser need to develop knitted polo shirt. For developing polo shirt, we need to measure correct collar size to make the photo shirt. So, we can say that garments merchandiser need to know correct way to measure collar measurement for sample development or bulk production. If any mistakes come in development stage, then garments merchandiser must be correct those mistakes before start the bulk production. Otherwise factory will face huge lose for lack of communication between internal department.

Collar Length calculation for Polo shirt

Before we start to calculate collar measurement, garments merchandiser should find out the below requirement information for calculating correct collar length;

• Neck width of the polo shirt
• Neck drop front

There are many ways to calculate collar length:

Option-1: Collar Length calculation = [{(Neck Width + Neck drop front) X 2 - 3} - 12.5%]

Suppose, A polo shirt has Neck width 13.75 cm and Neck drop front 6 cm. Now we need to find out collar length of polo shirt.

Solution: Collar length calculation = [{(Neck width + Neck drop front ) X 2} - 3] - 12.5%

                                                  = [{( 13.75 + 6 ) X 2 }- 3 ] - 12.5% 

                                                  = [39.5 - 3] - 12.5%

                                                  = 36.5 - 12.5%

                                                  = 31.94

                                                  = 31.5 cm 

Finally, we have found the result, we need 31.5 cm length for this polo shirt. For bulk production, merchandiser need to check with technician for smooth production. 

Option-2: Collar Length calculation: {(Neck width + Neck drop front) x 3} / 2
                                                  = {(13.75 + 6) x 3 } / 2
                                                  =29.63
                                                  = 29.5 cm or 29 cm

Note that, for collar length calculation we always used minus tendency. Because we can't reduce collar length after getting the final collar pcs. So, make sure that your collar length should be fit for the garments. For bulk secure, don't forget to re-check with garments technician.

Poly bag consumption and costing

Poly bag is the most common and important item in apparel industry. Normally we used different kinds of bag to pack the goods. We packed the garments with poly bag before insert in a carton for shipment. In apparel industry, we use one poly for one garment, we called it single poly and insert several single polys in a big poly bag, we called it “blister poly”.

Poly bag calculation is important part for garments merchandiser. Commonly we known as polythene. Poly bag has used to protect from dust or dirt, moisture. In garments industries, maximum company has used those poly bag, material used PP (polypropylene), PE (polyethylene), LDPE (low density polyethylene) & HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Worldwide, gauge is used most system of counting poly bag's thickness.

Before starting the poly bag consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the following information at first;

• Poly bag length in inch.
• 1/2 flap of poly bag (because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is double layer)
• Poly bag width in inch
• Thickness of poly bag in gauge
• Number of print on the poly bag (print means text, logo, warning etc.) 
• Polymer rate of per lbs. (pound) of the following poly bag (It may PP, PE or LDPE etc. )

Formula: For 1,000 pcs poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300}

Q.1: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 29 cm, Half flap 5 cm, Width 26 cm & poly thickness 160 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?

Solution: Poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 }

                                             = {(29 + 2.5) X 26 X 160 / 3300}

                                             = {31.5 X 26 X 160 / 3300}

                                             = 39.709 KGs for 1000 pcs   

                                             

Note: We used half flap during calculation because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is double layer.

Q.2: Suppose, per pcs poly weight is 0.0397 KGs, polymer price 1 lbs (pound) is $0.35. Now find out the price of per pcs poly?

Solution:  Per pcs poly weight X Polymer price

              = 39.709 / 1000 X $0.35
              = 0.0397 X 2.2 X $0.35                  [ 1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]

              = $0.03056 /pcs 

Q.3: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 30 cm, half flap 5 cm, width 25 cm & poly thickness 150 gauge, 1 lbs polymer price is $0.35. Now find out the cost 1 pcs poly bag?

Solution:
Poly bag cost = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 / 1000 X Price}

                                      = {(30 + 2.5) X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}

                                      = {32.5 X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
                                      = 0.0369 KGs X $0.35
                                      = 0.0369 X 2.2 X $0.35                             [ 1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]
                                      = $0.0284 / pcs 

Carton Consumption and Pricing

Carton is a very important factor in readymade garments industry. Every textile engineer (merchandiser) should have clear and brief idea about it. Although, many garments merchandisers not have correct idea about carton consumption. Basically carton box is made by ply board. Ply board can be 3 ply, 5 ply or 7 ply. It’s needed to deliver the finished goods to buyer without any damages. Buyer may complain if there is any damage in the goods during transportation because of bag quality carton box. At present, buyer ask to do busting test of carton box to ensure the quality of carton box. For kind information, every carton boxes should have minimum two ply boards to insure product security.

Carton Consumption and Pricing

In terms of carton consumption means “consumption of ply board”. We know that, carton box is made by using ply board. Before started to calculating ply board consumption or carton consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the below information:

·         Length of the carton box

·         Width of the carton box

·         Height of the carton box

By using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate ply board consumption or carton consumption in apparel industry. Let’s see the below equation with example;

Carton Consumption :

Formula of CBM (Cubic Meter) : Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000

Formula of carton measurement in square :  ( Length + Width + Wastage) X ( Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton quantity

Formula of carton consumption and costing: { (Length + Width) X (Width + Height)} X 2 + Wastage percentage 

Q.1: Suppose, a carton has Length 58 cm, Width 35 cm & Height 40 cm, total carton 200 pcs. Now find out the cargo measurement for 200 cartons?

Solution: Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000 X Carton Qty

              = 58 X 35 X 40 /10,00,000 X 200

              = 16.24 CBM

Q.2: Suppose, a carton has 5 ply, Length 60 cm, Width 45 cm, Height 50 cm, total carton qty 150 pcs. Now find out the carton measurement in square meter?

Solution: ( Length + Width + Wastage ) X ( Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton qty  

              =  (60 + 45 + 5) X ( 45 + 50 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X 150

              = 110 X 100 X 2 / 10,000 X 150

              = 330 square meter

(Note: If you don't want to add wastage, then avoid wastage value. For safety purpose, should be add wastage )

Q.3: Suppose, a 5 ply carton's per square (100 X 100) meter's rate is USD 0.85. Carton Length is 58 cm, Width 26 cm , Height 40 cm. Now find out the carton price?

Suppose: ( Length + Width + Wastage ) X ( Width + Height + Wastage ) X 2 / 10,000 X Price

              = ( 58 + 26 + 5) X ( 26 + 40 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X $ 0.85

              = 89 X 71 X 2 / 10,000 X $ 0.85

              = $1.074 / per pcs

Q.4: Suppose, a 7 ply carton Length is 58 cm (0.58 meter), Width 35 cm (0.35 meter), Height 40 cm (0.40 meter), price $0.90 per square. Now find the price per carton?

Suppose: {(Length + Width) X (Width + Height) } X 2 + Wastage Percentage

              = {( 0.58 + 0.35) X (0.35 + 0.40)} X 2 + 5%               [ 1 cm = 1/100 meter ]            

              = { 0.93 X 0.75 } X 2 + 5%

              =  1.4675 square meter

              = 1.4675 X $0.90                                                        [1 square meter = $0.90]

              = $1.320/ carton

Sewing Thread Consumption

We need to figure out sewing thread consumption of various item like T-shirt, shorts, pants and tank tops. As a textile engineer, we need to calculate sewing thread consumption perfectly for costing purpose / bulk production. Sewing thread consumption means how much thread we need to stitch for an garments. To figure out garments thread consumption, we have to pay concentration on sewing machine, number of needles, fabric thickness. We need to calculate how much thread is used to stitch 1 inch by machine. And also we have to consider minimum 10-15% wastage to find out thread consumption of a product. Below information shows you how much thread you need to stitch 1 inch of fabric. By the way, it differs fabric to fabric as on their GSM & fabric construction. If you want to check your self, then you can stitch 10 inches of fabric, now cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each thread, now figure out the threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. It's long process, so better we can memorize information and imagine wastage depending on GSM. For high GSM fabric, we need to increase wastage percentage. If we are working on T-shirt then we have to separate the different stitching of that shirt.

Sewing thread consumption

Let's see below information for how much tread you need to stitch one inch fabric by different sewing machine:

Machine	Needs thread per inch stitch
Plain Machine- Single Needles	= 2.75 inches
2 Needles P/M (Plain Machine)	= 5.5 inches
3 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine	= 15 inches
4 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine	= 19 inches
5 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine	= 23 inches
Safety stitch	= 20 inches
Flat lock Stitch	= 32 inches
Chain stitches - 1 Needle Kansai Machine - 2 Needle	= 11 inches = 12 inches
Button Hole	= 24 inches
Bar take Machine	= 26 inches
Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes)	= 3 inches
Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes)	= 6 inches

Now, let's find out sewing thread consumption with example:

Q.1: Suppose, we want to make consumption on T-Shirt. T-shirt have 90 inches 3 thread over lock stitches, 48 inches flat lock stitches, 18 inches 1 needle chain stitches, 16 inches single needle Plain Machine Stitches, normal GSM is 150. Let's find out the consumption of sewing thread in meters ?

Solution: {(90 *3 thread O/L) + ( 48 * F/L) + (18 * 1 needle Chain stitches) + (16 * 1 needle P/M) + 10% wastage }

             = {(90 * 15) + (48 * 32) + (18 * 11) + (16 * 2.75) + 10%}

             = { 1350 + 1536  + 198 + 44 + 15%}

             = 3597 inches

             = 3597 / 39.37                                          ( 1 meter = 39.37 inches)

             = 91.37 meters

Q.2: Suppose, we need to buy thread cones with 4000 meters, Garments qty 2500 pcs, Per body consumption 91.37 meters. Now let's see how many cones need to stitch 2500 pcs of garments ?

Solution: Per body consumption * Garments qty / per cone in meters

             = 91.37 * 2500 / 4000

            = 57 cone