Garments Accessories: Sewing Thread

In addition to fabrics, garments accessories play a very important role in the garments manufacture. Bad quality accessories or wrong accessories used can cause the merchandiser to be rejected or returned by customers. Following is some information about accessories on Sewing thread which deserves our close attention.

In today’s garment industry, most manufactures would use spun polyester threads for its strength and practicality. However, 100% cotton threads are still available and used sometimes. It is important that we know the characteristics of them and use them appropriately.

Polyester thread very strong and colorfast. It can stand all kinds of rough washing such as store wash and acid wash without its color affected. During washing it does not pick up any color either. Therefore, when we use polyester threads for making denim garments we must select the thread color to much the garment color after wash, and not the color before wash, otherwise the thread color may stand out after wash when the garment color is toned down by washing.

100% cotton threads should not be used unless you are making the garment for garment-dye, because cotton threads are more expensive and easy to break. However, if you make garments for garment dye then must use 100% cotton threads.

“Garments dye” means you first make up the garments in white or natural color and then dip them into a dye (mostly direct dye) to dye into colors to achieve a homemade or primitive look.  Sometimes, you tie up a part of the garment with a string before you do the dipping to create some abstract tie dye designs. In a case like this, you must cotton threads so that the stitching is dyed same way as the garment. If, you use polyester threads, stitching will remain undyed. 

How to Calculate Zipper Length

Zipper is one of the common item in garments industry. Zipper teeth are usually made of brass, aluminum, plastic or nylon which do not shrink when washed. Therefore, the zipper tapes must be made of materials which do not shrink when washed otherwise the shrinkage will make the zipper fail to function. In most cases, the zipper tapes are made of nylon or polyester which do not shrink and are colorfast. 

Zipper Length calculation for Garments

Zipper measurement calculation is the most important part for garments merchandiser. So, garments merchandiser should more careful to calculate zipper measurement for bulk production. However, zipper calculation is very easy but sometimes it becomes a matter of big trouble for us. Zipper depends on fabrics and zipper properties. So, we need to take some idea about the body fabric shrinkage and zipper tape. Today we will discuss about the front long zipper of sweat shirt and hoodies or as like that. 

Zipper Calculation: 

Let’s check out, how to find out zipper measurement by using formulas;

• If the garments body length measure from HPS, then

Formula: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop ) - (2 to 3 %) 

Suppose, A sweat shirt has body length 70 cm, front neck drop 7 cm and back neck drop is - 3 cm, Now find out the zipper length?

Solution: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop ) - 2 to 3%

              = 70 - ( 7 + 3 ) - 2%

              = 58.8 cm = 58.5 cm 

Finally, we got the result, we need zipper length 58.5 cm 

• If the garments body length measure from CB, then formula will be;

Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %)

Suppose, a hoodie has body length 67 cm, front neck drop 6 cm. Now find out the zipper length ?

Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2 %

              = (67 - 6) - 2% 

              = 59.78 cm = 59.5 cm 

Finally, we have got the result, we will use zipper length 59.5 cm 

• If the garments have high neck and zipper goes up to high neck drop from bottom. 

Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %) + Height of high neck 

Suppose, A hoodie garments has body length 68 cm, front neck drop 6 cm, height of high neck 5 cm. Now find out he zipper length?

Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop ) - 2 % + Height high neck

              = (68 - 6 ) - 2% + 5 

              = 65.76 cm = 65.50 cm

Finally we have got the result, we will use zipper length 65.5 cm 

Button Linear and counting for Garments

Button is one of the common accessories in apparel industry. Also most important part to optimize button measurement correctly for garment merchandisers. As its importance in readymade garments, improper button size can turn the garments into faulty garments.

What is Ligne?

Ligne means “Line” which became from French word that became the standard reference used by German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century. Ligne is shortened with letter of “L” which is the internationally recognized standard. To measure diameter of buttons, usually we use liner unit (1/40 inch). Available button sizes are: 13L, 14L, 15L, 16L, 17L, 18L, 20L, 22L, 24L, 26L, 27L, 28L, 30L, 32L, 36L, 40L, 42L, 44L, 46L, 48L, 54L, 60L.

Button Linear and counting for garments

To find out the button line, we should to know below measurement for easy understand:

• 1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm = 25.4 mm
• 1 Ligne = 0.635 mm 
• 1 Dozen = 12 pcs
• 12 Dozens = 1 Gross
• 12 Gross = 1 GG
• 1 GG = 1728 pcs

Let's find out the button line/ligne with simple example:

Formula: Button ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or Button Dia in mm X 1 / 0.635

Q.1: Suppose, Button length (dia) is 8 mm, Now figure out the button ligne for 8mm?
Solution:
Button Ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635
                      = 8 / 0.635
                      = 12.59 ligne = 12 L                                  [ L = Ligne ]

Q.2: Find out the button ligne for 12mm button dia?
Solution:
Button Ligne = Button dia in mm X 1 / 0.635
                      = 12 X 1 / 0.635
                      = 18.897 ligne
                      = 18 L                                                   [ L = Ligne ]

Q.3: Shirt has 6 buttons, order quantity total 4320 pcs. Now find out total button quantity in GG?
Solution:
Button quantity in GG = per shirt button X total quanty / 1728
                                    = 6 X 4320 / 1728                  [ 1 GG = 1728 pcs ]
                                    = 15 GG

Note: We need to additional quantity (minimum 5%) in case of shortage due to defective or damage in bulk production.

Poly bag consumption and costing

Poly bag is the most common and important item in apparel industry. Normally we used different kinds of bag to pack the goods. We packed the garments with poly bag before insert in a carton for shipment. In apparel industry, we use one poly for one garment, we called it single poly and insert several single polys in a big poly bag, we called it “blister poly”.

Poly bag calculation is important part for garments merchandiser. Commonly we known as polythene. Poly bag has used to protect from dust or dirt, moisture. In garments industries, maximum company has used those poly bag, material used PP (polypropylene), PE (polyethylene), LDPE (low density polyethylene) & HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Worldwide, gauge is used most system of counting poly bag's thickness.

Before starting the poly bag consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the following information at first;

• Poly bag length in inch.
• 1/2 flap of poly bag (because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is double layer)
• Poly bag width in inch
• Thickness of poly bag in gauge
• Number of print on the poly bag (print means text, logo, warning etc.) 
• Polymer rate of per lbs. (pound) of the following poly bag (It may PP, PE or LDPE etc. )

Formula: For 1,000 pcs poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300}

Q.1: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 29 cm, Half flap 5 cm, Width 26 cm & poly thickness 160 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?

Solution: Poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 }

                                             = {(29 + 2.5) X 26 X 160 / 3300}

                                             = {31.5 X 26 X 160 / 3300}

                                             = 39.709 KGs for 1000 pcs   

                                             

Note: We used half flap during calculation because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is double layer.

Q.2: Suppose, per pcs poly weight is 0.0397 KGs, polymer price 1 lbs (pound) is $0.35. Now find out the price of per pcs poly?

Solution:  Per pcs poly weight X Polymer price

              = 39.709 / 1000 X $0.35
              = 0.0397 X 2.2 X $0.35                  [ 1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]

              = $0.03056 /pcs 

Q.3: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 30 cm, half flap 5 cm, width 25 cm & poly thickness 150 gauge, 1 lbs polymer price is $0.35. Now find out the cost 1 pcs poly bag?

Solution:
Poly bag cost = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 / 1000 X Price}

                                      = {(30 + 2.5) X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}

                                      = {32.5 X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
                                      = 0.0369 KGs X $0.35
                                      = 0.0369 X 2.2 X $0.35                             [ 1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]
                                      = $0.0284 / pcs 

Carton Consumption and Pricing

Carton is a very important factor in readymade garments industry. Every textile engineer (merchandiser) should have clear and brief idea about it. Although, many garments merchandisers not have correct idea about carton consumption. Basically carton box is made by ply board. Ply board can be 3 ply, 5 ply or 7 ply. It’s needed to deliver the finished goods to buyer without any damages. Buyer may complain if there is any damage in the goods during transportation because of bag quality carton box. At present, buyer ask to do busting test of carton box to ensure the quality of carton box. For kind information, every carton boxes should have minimum two ply boards to insure product security.

Carton Consumption and Pricing

In terms of carton consumption means “consumption of ply board”. We know that, carton box is made by using ply board. Before started to calculating ply board consumption or carton consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the below information:

·         Length of the carton box

·         Width of the carton box

·         Height of the carton box

By using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate ply board consumption or carton consumption in apparel industry. Let’s see the below equation with example;

Carton Consumption :

Formula of CBM (Cubic Meter) : Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000

Formula of carton measurement in square :  ( Length + Width + Wastage) X ( Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton quantity

Formula of carton consumption and costing: { (Length + Width) X (Width + Height)} X 2 + Wastage percentage 

Q.1: Suppose, a carton has Length 58 cm, Width 35 cm & Height 40 cm, total carton 200 pcs. Now find out the cargo measurement for 200 cartons?

Solution: Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000 X Carton Qty

              = 58 X 35 X 40 /10,00,000 X 200

              = 16.24 CBM

Q.2: Suppose, a carton has 5 ply, Length 60 cm, Width 45 cm, Height 50 cm, total carton qty 150 pcs. Now find out the carton measurement in square meter?

Solution: ( Length + Width + Wastage ) X ( Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton qty  

              =  (60 + 45 + 5) X ( 45 + 50 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X 150

              = 110 X 100 X 2 / 10,000 X 150

              = 330 square meter

(Note: If you don't want to add wastage, then avoid wastage value. For safety purpose, should be add wastage )

Q.3: Suppose, a 5 ply carton's per square (100 X 100) meter's rate is USD 0.85. Carton Length is 58 cm, Width 26 cm , Height 40 cm. Now find out the carton price?

Suppose: ( Length + Width + Wastage ) X ( Width + Height + Wastage ) X 2 / 10,000 X Price

              = ( 58 + 26 + 5) X ( 26 + 40 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X $ 0.85

              = 89 X 71 X 2 / 10,000 X $ 0.85

              = $1.074 / per pcs

Q.4: Suppose, a 7 ply carton Length is 58 cm (0.58 meter), Width 35 cm (0.35 meter), Height 40 cm (0.40 meter), price $0.90 per square. Now find the price per carton?

Suppose: {(Length + Width) X (Width + Height) } X 2 + Wastage Percentage

              = {( 0.58 + 0.35) X (0.35 + 0.40)} X 2 + 5%               [ 1 cm = 1/100 meter ]            

              = { 0.93 X 0.75 } X 2 + 5%

              =  1.4675 square meter

              = 1.4675 X $0.90                                                        [1 square meter = $0.90]

              = $1.320/ carton

Sewing Thread Consumption

We need to figure out sewing thread consumption of various item like T-shirt, shorts, pants and tank tops. As a textile engineer, we need to calculate sewing thread consumption perfectly for costing purpose / bulk production. Sewing thread consumption means how much thread we need to stitch for an garments. To figure out garments thread consumption, we have to pay concentration on sewing machine, number of needles, fabric thickness. We need to calculate how much thread is used to stitch 1 inch by machine. And also we have to consider minimum 10-15% wastage to find out thread consumption of a product. Below information shows you how much thread you need to stitch 1 inch of fabric. By the way, it differs fabric to fabric as on their GSM & fabric construction. If you want to check your self, then you can stitch 10 inches of fabric, now cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each thread, now figure out the threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. It's long process, so better we can memorize information and imagine wastage depending on GSM. For high GSM fabric, we need to increase wastage percentage. If we are working on T-shirt then we have to separate the different stitching of that shirt.

Sewing thread consumption

Let's see below information for how much tread you need to stitch one inch fabric by different sewing machine:

Machine	Needs thread per inch stitch
Plain Machine- Single Needles	= 2.75 inches
2 Needles P/M (Plain Machine)	= 5.5 inches
3 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine	= 15 inches
4 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine	= 19 inches
5 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine	= 23 inches
Safety stitch	= 20 inches
Flat lock Stitch	= 32 inches
Chain stitches - 1 Needle Kansai Machine - 2 Needle	= 11 inches = 12 inches
Button Hole	= 24 inches
Bar take Machine	= 26 inches
Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes)	= 3 inches
Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes)	= 6 inches

Now, let's find out sewing thread consumption with example:

Q.1: Suppose, we want to make consumption on T-Shirt. T-shirt have 90 inches 3 thread over lock stitches, 48 inches flat lock stitches, 18 inches 1 needle chain stitches, 16 inches single needle Plain Machine Stitches, normal GSM is 150. Let's find out the consumption of sewing thread in meters ?

Solution: {(90 *3 thread O/L) + ( 48 * F/L) + (18 * 1 needle Chain stitches) + (16 * 1 needle P/M) + 10% wastage }

             = {(90 * 15) + (48 * 32) + (18 * 11) + (16 * 2.75) + 10%}

             = { 1350 + 1536  + 198 + 44 + 15%}

             = 3597 inches

             = 3597 / 39.37                                          ( 1 meter = 39.37 inches)

             = 91.37 meters

Q.2: Suppose, we need to buy thread cones with 4000 meters, Garments qty 2500 pcs, Per body consumption 91.37 meters. Now let's see how many cones need to stitch 2500 pcs of garments ?

Solution: Per body consumption * Garments qty / per cone in meters

             = 91.37 * 2500 / 4000

            = 57 cone